Melbourne

Justin & Dana Christian bio photo By Justin & Dana Christian Comment

A lot has changed in Melbourne since its early days as a gold-mining town on the very fringes of civilization. For one thing: its name. The original name of the city was supposed to be, get this, Batmania! It was supposed be named after its founder, John Batman, but the Aussies were trying to curry favor with the British crown at the time, so ended up naming it after Lord Melbourne instead. Which is how we missed out on having one of the greatest city names in history.

Stinkin' British, why does everything always have to be named after them? I think we can all agree that Batmania is way better than Melbourne.
Stinkin' British, why does everything always have to be named after them? I think we can all agree that Batmania is way better than Melbourne.

Melbourne feels like a global city now, but it still holds on to a little bit of that fringe element that makes it feel different. Alleyways filled with beautiful street art, trendy speakeasies, and odd street performers mix with delicious food options from all corners of the globe, stunning and strange museums, and cool modern architecture to create a flavor that is unique to this city.

The skyline rising out of the mist across the river on a gloomy day.  Considering it was midsummer in Australia, we expected every day to be sunny and hot, so we were surprised by how much rain the city gets!  Apparently the weather can be unpredictable and nasty all year long.
The skyline rising out of the mist across the river on a gloomy day. Considering it was midsummer in Australia, we expected every day to be sunny and hot, so we were surprised by how much rain the city gets! Apparently the weather can be unpredictable and nasty all year long.

We stayed at a hostel that was in an old converted nunnery (very cool buiding, but definitely one of the grosser hostels we stayed in) in the Fitzroy neighborhood, which is one of the trendiest neighborhoods in the city. It’s surrounded by hip bars, hole-in-the-wall restaurants, and clothes shops full of fashions that make you say “wait, people wear that?!” The park across the street from the hostel was a favorite evening roosting spot for huge fruit bats (these aren’t your piddly North American bats, we’re talking like a three foot wingspan), which would come winging in to land at dusk each night like miniature squeaking dragons. We had so much fun watching them!

The view of Fitzroy from the roof of our hostel.
The view of Fitzroy from the roof of our hostel.
One of the bars near our hostel, which had the best happy hour we could find.  Good happy hours are vital, because beer is freakishly expensive in Australia!
One of the bars near our hostel, which had the best happy hour we could find. Good happy hours are vital, because beer is freakishly expensive in Australia!
Some of the awesome street art in the alleyways of Fitzroy.
Some of the awesome street art in the alleyways of Fitzroy.
This things are seriously amazing!
This things are seriously amazing!

We spent our days wandering around the city, exploring all the little alleyways and finding as much cheap food as we could. Food is nearly as expensive as alchohol in this city, so we couldn’t afford to explore much of the world-class dining options, but we found our fair share of cheep yummy street food!

Our first time trying Malaysian food!  This was a coconut milk broth, kind of like curry, with various meat in it.  It was... ok.  Not our favorite (maybe that was the restaurant though).
Our first time trying Malaysian food! This was a coconut milk broth, kind of like curry, with various meat in it. It was... ok. Not our favorite (maybe that was the restaurant though).
The train station downtown near Federal Square.
The train station downtown near Federal Square.
The skyline across Princess Bridge.
The skyline across Princess Bridge.
Another happy hour special; oysters with bacon and barbeque sauce.  This might be sacreligious to true oyster lovers, but we thought it was pretty tasty!
Another happy hour special; oysters with bacon and barbeque sauce. This might be sacreligious to true oyster lovers, but we thought it was pretty tasty!
Enjoying the wildlife at one of the many parks while chilling for an afternoon.  Melbourne had so many fantastic parks!
Enjoying the wildlife at one of the many parks while chilling for an afternoon. Melbourne had so many fantastic parks!
The Melbourne waterfront on one of the rare beautiful sunny days we got!
The Melbourne waterfront on one of the rare beautiful sunny days we got!
The new skyscrapers they're building have some pretty cool designs.
The new skyscrapers they're building have some pretty cool designs.
The massive Queen Victoria Market is a permanent indoor/outdoor marketplace full of stalls where you can buy everything imaginable.  We spent a fun morning exploring all its nooks and crannies and trying not to impulse-buy anything.
The massive Queen Victoria Market is a permanent indoor/outdoor marketplace full of stalls where you can buy everything imaginable. We spent a fun morning exploring all its nooks and crannies and trying not to impulse-buy anything.
Anybody want a pig head?
Anybody want a pig head?

We splurged and spent the $30 pp to enjoy the Melbourne Museum for a day. It was definitely worth it; there were some really unique exhibits, as well as the usual natural history section full of creepy stuffed animals.

The Australian coat of arms...in real life?
The Australian coat of arms...in real life?
One of the exhibits featured items that had been in storage forever and that the museum didn't know what to do with.  So they rearanged them in a weird way and added a creepy voice-over!  It was definitely different!
One of the exhibits featured items that had been in storage forever and that the museum didn't know what to do with. So they rearanged them in a weird way and added a creepy voice-over! It was definitely different!
Some famous person's robe (don't remember who), with dead birds on the side.
Some famous person's robe (don't remember who), with dead birds on the side.
A creepy hearst.
A creepy hearst.
Don't look behind you...
Don't look behind you...
The famous racehorse Phar Lap, apparently so beloved by his countrymen that thousands flock to the museum each year to pay their respects to him.
The famous racehorse Phar Lap, apparently so beloved by his countrymen that thousands flock to the museum each year to pay their respects to him.
A pygmy blue whale skeleton.  Far cooler than the bones was the video showing how they'd retrieved the carcass, which had washed up dead on the shore and required a small engineering army to transport it onto a truck.
A pygmy blue whale skeleton. Far cooler than the bones was the video showing how they'd retrieved the carcass, which had washed up dead on the shore and required a small engineering army to transport it onto a truck.

We wanted to see some of the surrounding countryside while we were here, so started looking into how far out of the city public transportation could get us. We found a small national park called Organ Pipes which we could get to by taking a train and then a bus, so we decided to finally pop our “no city buses” cherry. We successfully navigated the train out of the city, then caught the correct bus with a lot of help from Google Maps. How did people survive before Google Maps? We were out of suburbia and humming along on a freeway surrounded by empty brown hills whena bus stop flashed by the side of the road. Crap, that’s our stop! We didn’t even know they had bus stops by the side of freeways! We got off on the next stop, also weirdly right on the freeway shoulder, and then started slogging back towards the park entrance. Weirdly, another girl had gotten off with us because she was also trying to get to the park, and had also missed the stop. She was a Melbourne local, originally from Malaysia, so we had fun chatting with her as we walked.

The missed bus stop... who puts bus stops right on the side of the freeway?
The missed bus stop... who puts bus stops right on the side of the freeway?
The park itself was ok, but not really worth the four hours it took us to get there and back.  It took us only 30 minutes to walk through the whole thing!
The park itself was ok, but not really worth the four hours it took us to get there and back. It took us only 30 minutes to walk through the whole thing!
The organ pipes rock formation that the park is named after.
The organ pipes rock formation that the park is named after.

We had decided to spend New Years in Melbourne rather than Sydney because it was supposedly cheaper and more low-key. On New Year’s Eve we hit up a few bars in Fitzroy for some obscenely-priced beers, then headed to one of the many sites where they would be setting fireworks off in the center of town. We copied the locals and laid out a blanket, sneaking forbidden booze into cups as we waited for the fireworks to begin.

There was a dj and lots of people dancing as we all waited for the countdown to start.
There was a dj and lots of people dancing as we all waited for the countdown to start.
The fireworks didn't disappoint!  They might not have been on par with Sydney, but we had a great time.
The fireworks didn't disappoint! They might not have been on par with Sydney, but we had a great time.

On our last afternoon in the city, we were wandering around the massive Royal Botanical Gardens when we saw a popup Globe Theater. They were advertising Much Ado About Nothing for that evening, and the tickets for the standing room “seats” were only $10, so we got tickets for that evening’s performance. Justin wasn’t so sure about the idea, but we got dressed up in our least grungy hiking pants and made our way back to the theater that night. We were both pleasantly surprised, as the performance was awesome! We laughed so hard our sides hurt, the actors were great at bringing out the comedy in Shakespeare’s writing.

Turns out it was a New Zealand troupe performing, and they brought some Mauri flavor into the performance, including a haka and a traditional Mauri dance.
Turns out it was a New Zealand troupe performing, and they brought some Mauri flavor into the performance, including a haka and a traditional Mauri dance.
The actors were really fantastic.  If you ever get a chance to see a performance by the Pop Up Globe, we highly recommend it!
The actors were really fantastic. If you ever get a chance to see a performance by the Pop Up Globe, we highly recommend it!
Walking back to the hostel that night under a huge full moon, we watched the fruit bats circling in the city lights (in the picture they look like moths above the tallest building) and figured we'd had a pretty great last day in Melbourne.
Walking back to the hostel that night under a huge full moon, we watched the fruit bats circling in the city lights (in the picture they look like moths above the tallest building) and figured we'd had a pretty great last day in Melbourne.
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