A Beachin' Christmas

Justin & Dana Christian bio photo By Justin & Dana Christian Comment

The time had come to part with our huge campervan, which we had grown rather fond of despite how woefully unsuited it was to the narrow snaking roads of NZ. Bags in hand, we headed out to the street to try to catch the city bus to our hostel in downtown Auckland. Somehow we had yet to take a public bus on our adventure so far (maybe we’re bad backpackers, because isn’t that a ritual of backpacking?) so we were mentally preparing ourselves for all the different transfers we’d need to take to get to our hostel. We’d been waiting at the bus stop for about 30 seconds when a sedan ducked out of the rush hour traffic and pulled up next to us. The driver asked if we were heading downtown and if we wanted a ride. Dana, forgetting all basic safety rules like “don’t hop into cars with strangers”, (although in the age of Uber is that still a rule?) promptly chirped “Awesome, thanks!” and hopped in. Thankfully he was just a nice guy and not a serial killer, so we made it downtown without incident, and failed yet again in taking the public bus. Then we had a long talk about jumping in cars with random guys.

It being the week before Christmas, the main shopping street in Auckland was all abuzz with the consumer spirit.

Nothing says Christmas like a Godzilla-sized santa.
Nothing says Christmas like a Godzilla-sized santa.

We took a walking tour to get some local history, which turned out to be rather lackluster. The most entertaining part of the tour was hearing about the shenanigans of the sailors who would come ashore searching for entertainment.

Vulcan Street, named after a foundary that operated there in the 1870's, was a favorite haunt of sailors looking for a good time.  The hotels there started serving alchohol only between 5-6 PM in an attempt to cut down on the prodigious amount of drinking the sailors were doing.  This backfired, as they all started slamming drinks right at 5 and just got drunker faster.
Vulcan Street, named after a foundary that operated there in the 1870's, was a favorite haunt of sailors looking for a good time. The hotels there started serving alchohol only between 5-6 PM in an attempt to cut down on the prodigious amount of drinking the sailors were doing. This backfired, as they all started slamming drinks right at 5 and just got drunker faster.
A weird wavy building on the wharf.
A weird wavy building on the wharf.

The coolest part of Auckland was the marina, which was lined with nice bars and restuarants and was clearly the place to be at happy hour.

The Auckland skyline from the marina.
The Auckland skyline from the marina.
Sunny and gorgeous.  Not our usual view in December.
Sunny and gorgeous. Not our usual view in December.
This is where the bazillionaires dock their massive catamarans.
This is where the bazillionaires dock their massive catamarans.

Christmas was coming up, and we’d decided we didn’t want to spend it in the city, which is apparently pretty dead around the holidays. So we rented a car and drove four hours north to spend a few days exploring the beachy communities on the peninsula north of Auckland. Apparently it’s a Kiwi tradition to go camping on the beach for Christmas, so we were in good company on our drive. It’s probably the most traffic this island ever sees!

Foghorn Leghorn wanted to hop in our car.
Foghorn Leghorn wanted to hop in our car.
We found this cute little camper on AirBnB, in a beach community called Mangonui.  It was in the front yard of a really nice couple, and we had an amazing time getting to know our hosts and exploring the rural area.  It was the perfect place to spend Christmas!
We found this cute little camper on AirBnB, in a beach community called Mangonui. It was in the front yard of a really nice couple, and we had an amazing time getting to know our hosts and exploring the rural area. It was the perfect place to spend Christmas!
What a catch!
What a catch!
On Christmas Eve we walked to the top of Rangikapiti Pa, with a view of Mangonui below.  The Pa's were hilltop settlements built by the Mauri so they could keep an eye on their surrounding lands.  There's nothing left of them now except flattened hilltops.
On Christmas Eve we walked to the top of Rangikapiti Pa, with a view of Mangonui below. The Pa's were hilltop settlements built by the Mauri so they could keep an eye on their surrounding lands. There's nothing left of them now except flattened hilltops.
Contemplating the cloudy sea after scrambling down a cliff.
Contemplating the cloudy sea after scrambling down a cliff.

Christmas day dawned sunny and beautiful, and we decided to follow local tradition by heading to the beach. We packed a lunch and a waterbottle of wine (‘cuz we classy) and drove to the Karikari Peninsula, where we found a miles-long stretch of pure white sand, and only a handful of other people in sight. We went for a long walk with only seagulls and the occasional swan for company. Apparently wild swans are a thing here, and they hang out at the beach? After a few miles the sun got a little overbearing, the surf looked mighty inviting, and for some reason we hadn’t brought swim suits. But with no one else in sight who needs suits? That was definitely a Christmas first for both of us!

Christmas selfies!
Christmas selfies!
What a surreal way to spend the day.  Not a candy cane in sight.
What a surreal way to spend the day. Not a candy cane in sight.
A sunny holiday...a beach like this...shouldn't there be like 3,000 other people here?
A sunny holiday...a beach like this...shouldn't there be like 3,000 other people here?
Making Christmas dinner: lamb chops!
Making Christmas dinner: lamb chops!
The final product.  Soooooo good!  Kuddos to Justin for making the best lamb I've ever tasted.  It may have helped that we're in NZ where you can probably get some of the best lamb in the world.
The final product. Soooooo good! Kuddos to Justin for making the best lamb I've ever tasted. It may have helped that we're in NZ where you can probably get some of the best lamb in the world.

After a very different and very special holiday, we made our way slowly back down to Auckland, taking a few stops along the way. There are trees in New Zealand called Kauri trees, which are comparable in size to the California redwoods, at least in terms of their huge girth. They used to cover the islands but were nearly wiped out once the Europeans discovered they make great ship masts. There are still a few tiny groves left on the North Island, one of which, Puketi Forest, was not too far from Mangonui. We stopped off to take a hike to see the trees, and they were truly astounding!

Photos don't do them justice.  These trees are crazy huge!
Photos don't do them justice. These trees are crazy huge!
We felt like bugs standing next to them.
We felt like bugs standing next to them.
The beautiful prehistoric-looking Puketi Forest, full of dripping ferns and massive trees.  For about the 100th time since we got to this country, we felt like we had gone back in time and expected a pterodactyl to come over the horizon at any minute.
The beautiful prehistoric-looking Puketi Forest, full of dripping ferns and massive trees. For about the 100th time since we got to this country, we felt like we had gone back in time and expected a pterodactyl to come over the horizon at any minute.
I feel like this photo represents me perfectly.  When we got back from our hike Justin lost me, then after a while of searching found me sitting at a random picnic table in a campground near where we were parked, scarfing down a PBJ sandwich with a goofy grin on my face.  It was a good sandwich.
I feel like this photo represents me perfectly. When we got back from our hike Justin lost me, then after a while of searching found me sitting at a random picnic table in a campground near where we were parked, scarfing down a PBJ sandwich with a goofy grin on my face. It was a good sandwich.

Our final stop before we got back to Auckland to catch our flight was Bay of Islands, which is a popular tourist destination known for its beautiful scenery and watersports. We found an awesome little hostel with a few great backpacker bars nearby (read: cheap beer and cheaper food). We only spent one night there but really enjoyed exploring the little touristy town and taking in the scenery.

Sunset over the bay after enjoying a cheap cheeseburger and yummy happy hour at a local bar.  Maybe that's why the horizon is a little skewed...
Sunset over the bay after enjoying a cheap cheeseburger and yummy happy hour at a local bar. Maybe that's why the horizon is a little skewed...
Bay of Islands is a bay full of islands.  Who knew?
Bay of Islands is a bay full of islands. Who knew?

After enjoying our Christmas beach week, we had to head back to the city to catch a flight to Melbourne. We had an evening flight, so had one more day to kill in Auckland. We went to the zoo, decided it was too expensive, and instead got ice cream and wandered around a nearby park, sneaking peeks of the elephants through the zoo fence. It was actually a great way to spend our last day in the country.

The park full of swans, ducks, and geese.  Everyone was feeding them bread, and we saw one toddler almost get mauled by a couple geese.
The park full of swans, ducks, and geese. Everyone was feeding them bread, and we saw one toddler almost get mauled by a couple geese.
Last day ice cream!  NZ ice cream is so creamy and delicious.  We were sad to be leaving such an amazing country, but excited to see Australia!
Last day ice cream! NZ ice cream is so creamy and delicious. We were sad to be leaving such an amazing country, but excited to see Australia!
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