We Want Mo:Mo of Nepal!

Justin & Dana Christian bio photo By Justin & Dana Christian Comment

The final adventure we would share with our tour group was travelling to Kathmandu to see the many beautiful temples in the capital of Nepal. The road we took to Kathmandu is the only road that runs from Chitwan to Kathmandu,and is therefore heavily traveled. The not-quite-two-lane road has a mountain on one side, a precipitous drop to the river below on the other, and is in constant need of maintenance. Work to widen and pave the road has apparently been ongoing for years now, but the fact that the road is never closed and is populated by huge shipping trucks day and night has seriously hindered the pace. When we travelled it, one lane was closed for nearly the entire length of the road due to construction, so traffic was left to squeeze into the outside lane.

Crazy Road
The dramatic view on the road to Kathmandu
Crazy Road
Lush rainforest and a muddy river

Steel cable bridges spanned the canyon at regular intervals to allow people to cross over to the huts clinging to the mountain on the other side, and we got to get out and stretch our legs on one of these bridges. The whole area felt decidedly Indiana Jones-esque.

bridge
Insert Indiana Jones theme song here
bridge
Swinging on the bridge...no crocodiles below thankfully

After this nail-biting six hour drive (which passed in a blink thanks to a lively game of charades), we topped the last hill to see Kathmandu stretched out below us. The sea of low colorful buildings was covered in a thick haze of smog and dust, and the hills on the other side of the city were just barely visible through the pollution. Our hotel was in the Thamel district, which is the central downtown area where most of the tourism is located. The traffic-clogged streets are just barely more negotiable in this area, where hundreds of pedestrians clog the throughways, but you still have to be constantly ready to leap out of the way of a speeding motorbike or overly friendly tout.

Kathmandu
Our first view of the city in the distance as we entered the valley
Kathmandu
A rooftop view on our first evening. It looks so peaceful from up here!
Kathmandu
Not quite as nuts as Delhi but watch your step all the same
Kathmandu
With wiring like this all over the city, it's amazing any place maintains power!

There’s a heady sense of adventure permeating everything in Kathmandu, owing to the fact that this is the jumping-off point for most treks and climbs in the Himalayas. The shops lining the streets are a little unusual; alongside the elephant carvings and gaudy t-shirts you’ll find North Face parkas, trekking poles, bags, tents, and plenty of other gear designed to handle the worst the fierce mountains can throw at you. The food options are equally varied. Mexican, French, Italian, American, Japanese, Chinese, you name it you can find it. We stuck mostly to Nepalese food, because it was delicious, and of course the cheapest. The star of the show was definitely the mo:mos (Why is there a colon in this word? Who knows, but that’s how all the restaurants spelled it.)

mo:mo
This was our favorite mo:mo restaurant. We got water buffalo and chicken mo:mos, and the soup is thukpa, basically Nepalese chicken noodle soup. So hearty and rich! We ate here twice because it was so good.
thali
A delicous plate of vegetarian Thali, one of the traditional Nepalese dishes. On the left is dal baht, a soupy mix of lentils and spices, the thin bread is chapati, and the rest are various veggie curries and stir fried veggies. It's very easy to eat vegetarian here.

We woke up early to catch a flight up to see Everest. It was a bit more than our budget allowed, but we figured how many chances in our life will we get to see this? We didn’t get as close Everest as we had hoped, but it was still an absolutely spectacular view. These mountains are so much bigger than anything we’ve ever seen before…they make the Rockies look like tiny little hills.

Everest
The dawn smog hanging over the city as we took off.
Everest
And then BOOM you're above the clouds and the blue sky and mountains are stretched out before you!
Everest
As part of the tour you're allowed a view from the cockpit
Everest
Just beautiful. These mountains were about level with us, which is not something you're used to seeing when you look out a plane window (we were flying at about 22,000 feet.
Everest
There it is! We were hoping to get closer, but oh well. Still really cool to see it!

We spent the rest of the day touring three temples, or as they’re called, Stupas.

temples
This is known as the Monkey Temple, due to all they mischevious monkeys running around.
temples
Thirsty monkey
temples
Grooming and relaxing in the morning heat
temples
View of the prayer flags from the top of the Monkey Temple
temples
The hazy city below the Monkey Temple
temples
We visited one of the Hindu temples where they perform cremations and return the ashes to the river. In the distance on the left you can see smoke rising from one of the pyres. The concrete platforms are used for the cremations, and then the ashes are swept into the river below.
temples
The biggest stupa of them all, Boudhanath Stupa. We were feeling a bit stupa'd out at this point, and were ready to go in search of mo:mos
temples
Opulent buildings surrounding the stupa.

That evening we said a regretful goodbye to our tour group. We were so lucky to have found such a fun group to travel with, a trip like this is so much better when you have great people to experience everything with. We had one final party which may have culminated in a bed being broken in our room. We leave the explanation to your imagination, dear reader.

Last night at the bar
Tiger pose! We will miss our new friends!
Leaving our mark
Leaving our mark at the bar. Fun bahut acha translates to "fun is necessary", the perfect motto for this group!

The two of us stayed on in the city for another few days, exploring the dusty streets, catching up on some much-needed rest, and eating as many mo:mos as we could get our hands on!

Kathmandu streets
Exploring the dusty streets
Kathmandu Streets
The locals were gearing up for a holiday, lots of street vendors selling decorations, flowers, and religious trinkets. We never did figure out the name of this holiday, but it sure was fun to watch all the commotion!
Kathmandu streets
The chaotic and colorful festival preparations. You can see flowers adorning all the store fronts in the background.
Kathmandu streets
Extensive earthquake damage to the palace. The building is being completely restored, with assistance from the US government. We didn't see too many signs of the quake in most of the city (although we don't know what the city looked like before the quake, so we wouldn't necessarily know what to look for) but this section of the city showed heavy damage, not only to the palace and temples but to many of the surrounding residential buildings. Many of them were held up by 2x4's braced against the ground, and really looked unsafe.
Kathmandu Streets
A scene that reminded us we hadn't come too far from India.

We really loved our time in Nepal; the people are lovely, the scenery is breathtaking, and the food is delicious. We met a Kathmandu native on our flight out who was disappointed we hadn’t been trekking in the mountains on our trip. He told us in no uncertain terms that we need to come back, and this time see more of the country. We agree wholeheartedly.

mo:mo
Goodbye mo:mos! We will miss you!
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